Star Studded
Valentino! Isabel Marant! Alaïa! Studs are Making a Comeback in 2025
If you’ve been paying attention, you’ll have seen studs appearing on anything from bags and shoes to belts and jeans all through 2024. Valentino’s Rockstud 2023 campaign by creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli says it all: ‘the Rockstud is a symbol of the aristo-punk attitude, at once high and low, defiantly rock and effortlessly bourgeois.’ Studs are a blend of high fashion, homemade charm and a contemporary and rebellious spirit. Given fashion’s obsession with mixed metals for the past few seasons, it is no wonder the stud is being welcomed back to the zeitgeist.
The stud’s simple ability to elevate any accessory or piece of clothing is what makes the trend so versatile and undoubtedly, is why so many fan-favourite designers have been incorporating them into their ready-to-wear collections. While Valentino takes the title of pioneer when it comes to the utilisation of studs in 21st century high fashion, Miu Miu, Alaïa, Isabel Marant and more have also been engaging in a star-studded love affair. Emerging it-brand Gimaguas’s viral ‘Franca’ bag has made waves and is quickly became one of the most sought-after items for every fashionista. Good luck getting your hands on one in time for Christmas, these embellished icons are almost always sold out. Speaking of studded handbags, the Alaïa ‘LE CŒUR’ is perhaps the hottest crossbody we’ve seen recently. It screams princess meets punk in the best possible way.
One designer whose brand has quickly become auto-buy for many this year is Grace Wales Bonner. I mean come on, we were all drooling over those cheetah print sambas created for her collab with Adidas. Even Zendaya sported the collection head-to-two for her tennis inspired May 2024 cover shoot with British Vogue. The Wales Bonner x Samba ‘Studded Pack’ shoes are similarly sold-out and are going for a pretty penny of up to £300 on resale sites. Other brands embellishing their classic shoes include Miu Miu and Isabel Marant. Miu Miu’s ballet flats have defined the last half-decade, easily being the most fashion-forward footwear this side of 2020. It is no surprise that their latest range heavily features studs. Eyelets, gems and flat metal hardware appear on anything from pumps and boots to brogues and loafers. Marant takes a similar approach, studding all their footwear classics, including their Lennyo sandal range.
On reflection, I personally became enthralled by studded shoes on my trip to New York City this summer. A girl got into my subway carriage wearing the most fabulous pair of rockstud Valentino ballerinas and I was instantly reminded of Carrie Bradshaw. Specifically the line: “So I walked. I walked forty-eight blocks in four hundred dollar shoes.” The effortlessly chic contrast of the subway floor and her stunning pumps embodied everything that the rockstud stands for. An amalgamation of utter elegance and playful rebellion. SJP would be proud.
In terms of runway fashion, we’ve seen many a studded garment on the catwalk of late. LOEWE’s Autumn / Winter 24 collection by Jonathan Anderson jumbo-sized the stud and used them on large waist panels resembling belts. Anderson’s appetite for the exciting was evident through the entire collection, each piece featuring studs being more grandiose than the last. Chemena Kamali is another designer who has been utilising studs in recent collections. With Chloé having taken on an increasingly bohemian edge, it is no surprise that Kamali would want to make use of embellishments to accentuate each look’s shabby chic nature. Studs appeared on leather boots multiple times throughout Chloé’s Autumn / Winter 24 runway as well as within the accessories department as seen on the ‘Hobo Bag’ and the ‘Judith Clogs’. With Western and Boho styles continuing to stay major in fashion, studs have made a charming accompaniment. Leather belts, cowboy boots and denim jackets have all been pimped to honour the latest trend. Just look to your favourite edgy high street brands like All Saints or Zadig & Voltaire for proof.
It seems studs in every capacity are at their apex. They are truly having their moment. Jewels, metals, pearls and stones are being embedded into every possible garment and accessory and we believe, when it comes to studs… more is more! So I urge you to lean into their fun and fashion-forward allure this Winter and into 2025. One doesn’t have to splash out half a grand on a pair of Miu Mius either. Do some charity shopping or even embellish something already in your wardrobe. Stud’s versatility means they can be rocked in so many ways and by so many people. Ultimately, the trend is explained most clearly by Valentino’s iconic slogan: ‘I mean… It’s Rockstud!’
Written by Darcy Jones (November 2024)